Greg Sonnier’s mid-city eatery attracts a devout crowd
Chef Greg Sonnier traveled the classic latter-day New Orleans food chain: he started at K-Paul’s, worked with fellow K-Paul’s alumnus Frank Brigtsen, then opened his own restaurant with his pastry-chef wife Mary. Gabrielle (named for one of their children) is a tight, triangular building with an absurdly minuscule kitchen, but that doesn’t seem to have any effect on the chef, his works, or his wildly enthusiastic regular customers.
The menu here changes every day according to what’s looking good in the market, but there is a running theme. Almost every dish here is dominated by a distinctly Louisiana taste, accomplished in ways ranging from the familiar to the highly original. This rings a clear bell with my palate, and accounts entirely for the rating.
It must, because I don’t find the creature comforts all that comfortable. The dining room can be claustrophobic and noisy, and the tables are in such demand that the service staff and management gets away with lapses in hospitality that a less-good place could not. But if food is at the top of your list, Gabrielle should be too.
Gabrielle Menu Recommendations
Menu changes daily
Sausage mixed grill
Grilled rabbit tenderloin
Pork chop any style
Lemon chess pie